Hamburger America Read online

  Table of Contents

  Title Page

  Dedication

  Foreword

  Introduction

  Chapter 1 - ARKANSAS

  COTHAM’S MERCANTILE

  Chapter 2 - CALIFORNIA

  THE APPLE PAN

  CASSELL’S HAMBURGERS

  GOTT’S ROADSIDE

  HODAD’S

  IN-N-OUT BURGER

  IRV’S BURGER

  JIM-DENNY’S

  JOE’S CABLE CAR RESTAURANT

  MARTY’S

  PIE ’N BURGER

  VAL’S BURGERS

  WESTERN STEAKBURGER

  Chapter 3 - COLORADO

  BUD’S BAR

  Chapter 4 - CONNECTICUT

  CLAMP’S HAMBURGER STAND

  LOUIS’ LUNCH

  SHADY GLEN

  TED’S RESTAURANT

  Chapter 5 - DELAWARE

  CHARCOAL PIT

  Chapter 6 - DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA

  BEN’S CHILI BOWL

  TUNE INN

  Chapter 7 - FLORIDA

  EL MAGO DE LAS FRITAS

  LE TUB

  Chapter 8 - GEORGIA

  ANN’S SNACK BAR

  Chapter 9 - IDAHO

  HUDSON’S HAMBURGERS

  Chapter 10 - ILLINOIS

  BILLY GOAT TAVERN & GRILL

  CHARLIE BEINLICH’S FOOD & TAP

  GRANT’S WONDERBURGER

  HACKNEY’S ON HARMS

  MOONSHINE STORE

  TOP NOTCH BEEFBURGER SHOP

  Chapter 11 - INDIANA

  HEINNIES

  POWERS HAMBURGER SHOP

  TRIPLE XXX FAMILY RESTAURANT

  WORKINGMAN’S FRIEND

  ZAHARAKOS ICE CREAM PARLOR AND MUSEUM

  Chapter 12 - IOWA

  HAMBURG INN NO. 2

  THE IRISH SHANTI

  PAUL’S TAVERN

  TAYLOR’S MAID-RITE

  Chapter 13 - KANSAS

  BOBO’S DRIVE IN

  COZY INN HAMBURGERS

  JACK’S NORTH HI CARRYOUT

  NUWAY CAFE

  Chapter 14 - LOUISIANA

  BOZO’S

  PORT OF CALL

  Chapter 15 - MAINE

  HARMON’S LUNCH

  Chapter 16 - MASSACHUSETTS

  MR. BARTLEY’S BURGER COTTAGE

  WHITE HUT

  Chapter 17 - MICHIGAN

  HUNTER HOUSE HAMBURGERS

  KRAZY JIM’S BLIMPY BURGER

  MILLER’S BAR

  MOTZ’S HAMBURGERS

  REDAMAK’S

  Chapter 18 - MINNESOTA

  CONVENTION GRILL

  GORDY’S HI-HAT

  MATT’S BAR

  THE 5-8 CLUB

  Chapter 19 - MISSISSIPPI

  BILL’S HAMBURGERS

  PHILLIPS GROCERY

  Chapter 20 - MISSOURI

  TOWN TOPIC

  WHEEL INN DRIVE-IN

  WINSTEAD’S

  Chapter 21 - MONTANA

  MATT’S PLACE DRIVE-IN

  THE MISSOULA CLUB

  Chapter 22 - NEBRASKA

  STELLA’S HAMBURGERS

  Chapter 23 - NEW HAMPSHIRE

  GILLEY’S PM LUNCH

  Chapter 24 - NEW JERSEY

  HOLIDAY SNACK BAR

  ROSSI’S BAR & GRILL

  WHITE MANNA HAMBURGERS

  WHITE ROSE SYSTEM

  Chapter 25 - NEW MEXICO

  BOBCAT BITE

  OWL BAR & CAFE

  Chapter 26 - NEW YORK

  CORNER BISTRO

  DONOVAN’S PUB

  HILDEBRANDT’S

  JG MELON

  P.J. CLARKE’S

  Chapter 27 - NORTH CAROLINA

  CHAR-GRILL

  PENGUIN DRIVE-IN

  SNAPPY LUNCH

  SOUTH 21 DRIVE-IN

  WHAT-A-BURGER DRIVE-IN

  Chapter 28 - OHIO

  CRABILL’S HAMBURGERS

  GAHANNA GRILL

  HAMBURGER WAGON

  JOHNNIE’S TAVERN

  KEWPEE

  THE SPOT

  SWENSON’S DRIVE IN

  THURMAN CAFE

  WILSON’S SANDWICH SHOP

  Chapter 29 - OKLAHOMA

  CLAUD’S HAMBURGERS

  FOLGER’S DRIVE-INN

  HAMBURGER KING

  HARDEN’S HAMBURGERS

  J&W GRILL

  JOHNNIE’S GRILL

  LINDA-MAR DRIVE-IN

  THE MEERS STORE & RESTAURANT

  PAK-A-SAK

  ROBERT’S GRILL

  SID’S DINER

  SLICK’S

  Chapter 30 - OREGON

  GIANT DRIVE-IN

  HELVETIA TAVERN

  STANICH’S TAVERN

  Chapter 31 - PENNSYLVANIA

  CHARLIE’S HAMBURGERS

  TESSARO’S

  Chapter 32 - RHODE ISLAND

  STANLEY’S HAMBURGERS

  Chapter 33 - SOUTH CAROLINA

  NORTHGATE SODA SHOP

  ROCKAWAY ATHLETIC CLUB

  Chapter 34 - SOUTH DAKOTA

  HAMBURGER INN

  NICK’S HAMBURGER SHOP

  Chapter 35 - TENNESSEE

  BROWN’S DINER

  DYER’S BURGERS

  FAT MO’S

  ROTIER’S RESTAURANT

  ZARZOUR’S CAFE

  Chapter 36 - TEXAS

  105 GROCERY

  ADAIR’S SALOON

  ARNOLD BURGER

  BLAKE’S BBQ AND BURGERS

  BURGER HOUSE

  CASINO EL CAMINO

  CHRIS MADRID’S

  CHRISTIAN’S TAILGATE BAR & GRILL

  DIRTY MARTIN’S KUM-BAK PLACE

  GUY’S MEAT MARKET

  HERD’S HAMBURGERS

  HUT’S HAMBURGERS

  KELLER’S DRIVE-IN

  KINCAID’S HAMBURGERS

  LANKFORD GROCERY

  LONGHORN CAFE

  Chapter 37 - UTAH

  CROWN BURGER

  Chapter 38 - VERMONT

  DOT’S RESTAURANT

  WHITE COTTAGE

  Chapter 39 - VIRGINIA

  TEXAS TAVERN

  Chapter 40 - WASHINGTON

  DICK’S DRIVE-IN

  EASTSIDE BIG TOM

  Chapter 41 - WISCONSIN

  AMERICAN LEGION POST #67

  ANCHOR BAR

  DOTTY DUMPLING’S DOWRY

  KEWPEE HAMBURGERS

  PETE’S HAMBURGERS

  THE PLAZA TAVERN

  SOLLY’S GRILLE

  WEDL’S HAMBURGER STAND AND ICE CREAM PARLOR

  ZWIEG’S

  Acknowledgements

  Copyright Page

  For my children, Ruby and Mac, and my wife,

  Casey, who is no longer a vegetarian.

  FOREWORD

  There is no delicate way to put this: George Motz is nuts.

  Who in his right mind would spend years traveling the country, clogging his arteries, parting with his hard-earned money, and suffering culinary indignities and belt-busting insults, all in pursuit of the perfect burger, something even he admits might not exist?

  I first met George when he came to Chicago to visit that subterranean tavern know as the Billy Goat. Being a New Yorker, he knew little of the legend of this venerable spot; I don’t think he realized that the Saturday Night Live “cheezborger, cheezborger” skits were inspired by this place and its shouting Greek “chefs”; and he’d never heard of Mike Royko and the other journalists who called the place home.

  There have been, by my rough calculation, 4,540,762 burgers served at the Billy Goat since it opened on Hubbard Street in 1964, but none was more significant than the one grilled at 12:14 p.m. on April 19, 2003, and consumed seconds later by George.

&nb
sp; The Goat’s burgers are griddled, but Motz has eaten them deep-fried, steamed, broiled, baked, and raw; eaten them on buns, rolls, and bread; eaten them plain and covered with butter, bacon, chili, peanut butter, pimentos, pastrami, and almost any other topping that can be concocted by a cook’s imagination and whatever might be lying around the kitchen.

  He did this initially to create the film Hamburger America. The documentary gained a robust cult following. It made George proud but it did not make him stop. Rather, the film became the inspiration for and foundation of this book, for George’s search for the best hamburgers in the country.

  The great television journalist Charles Kuralt once observed, “You can find your way across this country using burger joints the way a navigator uses stars.” And George set out to prove him right.

  What you hold in your hands is the labor of his travels—a gathering of meat, if you will, but also a celebration of burgers and the people who make them.

  Yes, George Motz is nuts.

  As nutty as Columbus, or Lewis and Clark, but in his quest to find the best burgers in America, George has found something more important. He has discovered, in the mom-and-pop grills and out-of-the-way diners, an America that most of us probably thought had already vanished, a country of individuality and inventiveness, of people willing to rage, rage against the homogenizing of the land. You should enjoy that as much as what arrives on your plate. It’s not just about the meat but the people you will meet.

  INTRODUCTION

  TO THE COMPLETELY REVISED HAMBURGER AMERICA

  They came at me from every angle and thankfully none of them were angry. The minute the first version of this book hit the shelves, hamburger enthusiasts thumbed through looking for their favorite burger joints. Most found what they were looking for. Others were not so lucky and were kind enough to let me know what I had missed. For those that let me in on where to find their favorite burgers I’m forever grateful.

  You see, this book is not really meant to be a “Best Of” by any means. It is only meant to function as a guide to finding great burger experiences in America. There are thousands and thousands of burger joints in this country and there’s a good chance that your small town secret is not here. I’m getting a little bit closer, however, as I present to you 52 additions to the Hamburger America family of approved burger joints.

  The original book profiled 100 great burger places to visit coast-to-coast. Sadly, since the publication of that book we’ve lost two hamburger greats, the Yankee Doodle in New Haven and Tookie’s in Seabrook, Texas. When I had learned of their demise I did everything to save them but it was not to be. Tookie’s suffered a devastating blow from Hurricane Ike and the Doodle had irreparable financial woes. We have bid farewell to the “Double Doodle” and the “Squealer” and are now left only with our memories. The downfall of these two seemingly invincible titans of the All-American hamburger only strengthened my resolve.

  In a turn of events befitting a Hollywood survival story, amazingly one of America’s great hamburger treasures came back to life. The Wheel Inn Drive-In of Sedalia, Missouri suffered a major setback when it needed to be demolished to make way for highway expansion. The owner had no interest in carrying on at a new location and shut the doors. Soon after, a former employee of the 65-year-old burger destination chose to take on the Herculean task of refiring the engines, and the Wheel Inn was resurrected just a few short blocks from its original location. It returned because the people wanted it to.

  One of the questions I’m asked almost on a daily basis now is, “Aren’t you sick of burgers?” In all honesty, no, and my appreciation of the hamburger grows exponentially with each new burger experience. The deeper I go into Hamburger America, the better it gets, and I still feel as though I’ve only scratched the surface.

  While gathering new information about hamburger joints for the revised edition of the book the most famous vegetarian in the burger world, my wife, Casey, decided after 17 years of avoiding meat that she’d like to have a burger. I was overjoyed, and scared. I chose the Bobcat Bite in Santa Fe to be her first, mostly because it’s a great burger, she loves spicy foods, and I knew John Eckre would be sensitive to the task at hand. Upon taking her first bite, with the entire restaurant watching, someone yelled out, “What do you think??” She replied, “What’s not to love?!” But the best part was that someone sitting next to her at the counter blurted out, “Did you think your husband was making this stuff up?” Needless to say, I’m really enjoying having Casey as a burger companion and, not surprisingly, our tastes are similar.

  Speaking of tastes, here again is the all-important list of criteria for being included in Hamburger America. To make the list, the burger had to be made from fresh-ground beef (chuck, sirloin, rump—something good from a cow) and never frozen. In most cases age, provenance, and historical context played a factor in deciding what was most relevant for this book. For example, Louis’ Lunch in New Haven may or may not have “invented” the hamburger, but it’s safe to say that it is, without argument, the oldest continually operating burger joint in America (at well over 100 years), run by the same family for four generations, and they still make a tasty hamburger. And naturally, the burger had to excite and satisfy this expert’s taste buds. Many of the burgers in this book fall into the under $5 category, and I avoided most of the supersized forty-seven-pound burgers and bloated, overthe-top wallet-busters—bigger is not always better, and Kobe beef should be enjoyed in Japan as a steak. Furthermore, I chose places you’d want to visit, and should, before the wrecking ball comes down and replaces all of these wonderful bits of Americana with a Wal-Mart parking lot, or worse, a McDonald’s.

  Please don’t try to be a hero (or a martyr) and eat all of the burgers in this book back to back. One thing that frightened me after the first book was released were the reports I was hearing about people powering through the book, coast-to-coast, in a matter of months. Whoa! Please be careful! During my research, even I, scarfing up to five burgers a day (not recommended), sought out the hotels with exercise equipment so that I might be alive today to bring you this book. My doctor laughed when I told him of my quest to write the Great American Hamburger Book, but then took my expanding waistline seriously, as should you. Embrace moderation.

  My primary reason for writing this book was to make sure that the next generation of burger lovers has a starting point for saving the all-American hamburger. The way to do this is to patronize as many of these restaurants as possible. Looking into the not-so-distant future I see the McDonald’s hamburger as a reference point for many as to what an American burger should look and taste like. This is not a good thing. A real American hamburger is so much more.

  Go forth into America—Hamburger America that is—and meet real people and eat real burgers. Across the nation, regional uniqueness abounds. Using this book as your guide you’ll discover the steamed cheeseburger of central Connecticut, the fried-onion burgers indigenous to Oklahoma, and Miami’s Cuban Frita. Meet some of the hardest-working Americans you’ll ever come across, whose commitment to great burgers will astound you. This book is for you, the burger aficionado. It is also for those who truly appreciate the preservation of a part of America that is threatened by the homogenization of the eating experience in this country. When you can appreciate a burger from a mom-and-pop joint that has found success in feeding people with high quality food for decades, you’ll have a much better sense of what this country is really made of.

  GEORGE MOTZ | BROOKLYN, NY, 2011

  1

  ARKANSAS

  COTHAM’S MERCANTILE

  5301 HIGHWAY 161 | SCOTT, AR 72142

  501-961-9284 | WWW.COTHAMS.COM

  MON–THURS 11 AM–2 PM | FRI & SAT 11 AM–8 PM

  There’s really only one reason to go to Cotham’s—for their “Famous Hubcap Burger,” so famous that you knew that already. What you may not know is that the Hubcap is made with over a pound of meat. You read that correctly; 17 ounces of fresh ground
beef is cooked on a flattop griddle and served on a bun that resembles a small throw cushion. But aside from its frightening proportions, the Hubcap makes a tasty meal. I had no problem finishing one.

  Cotham’s (pronounced cot-hams) is a restaurant that in a previous life served as the local grocery and dry goods store. The place contains the standard country store antiques and collectables that give it a lived-in feel. Original wood and glass cases are still in place, only now they house vintage food boxes, snuff canisters, and some truly bizarre tonics for curing “the chills and malaria.”

  For all of the attention Cotham’s has received nationally, it is still a local place at heart. The restaurant is a major tourist destination, but conversations can still be overheard that start with sentences like, “What church do you go to?” Cotham’s is only a few minutes from downtown Little Rock but from the view out the front window you’d think you were in the middle of nowhere. The scene looks straight out of The Wizard of Oz—long, telephone pole–lined dirt roads leading out to dusty cotton and soybean fields. There’s even a working chicken coop right next door to the restaurant.

  In 1999 a new location opened in downtown Little Rock. Be aware, though, that both locations are open only for lunch during the week (for three hours) and only the original Scott location is open on Saturdays.